Day 20 (Harrodsburg, Kentucky to Hogdenville, Kentucky)

An early day because the route as planned is 74 miles and if I do the detour to the Distillery it will be 80 miles and I am not a fast biker compared to the rest of the group.  So I packed up the hammock, popped on the biking clothes and headed out at 7:30AM.

This Kentucky land - at least central Kentucky most reminds me of Illinois because of the expansive farms and rolling hills.  Kentucky though has long horse pastures and still there are dogs.

As always the photo doesn't give a good sense of the expanse of the hill and the lawns and the graveyard on the matching hill to the right. The Priory Building just juts out and dominates the land. It's the Saint Rose Priory, operated by the Franciscans, and it's. most famous pupil was Confederate President Jefferson Davis.

Three times today - nothing serious - but the first one startled me and came out of nowhere. The other two dogs just ran up and tried to keep up but I was heading down hill and they posed no threat.

I took a short cut staying on Highway 152 into Springfield and that must have shaved anywhere from an hour to an hour and a half for me because after Springfield, when I rejoined the route, I was met with a road closed sign.

I texted the group, but no one had seen it yet, so I figured out that I was ahead.  I biked on hopeful that I would be able to "portage" around the closure.  Finally ran into Sherry Hamilton (pictured) who told me it was just the bridge but it was really a creek and likely I could cross it.  Otherwise she gave me extended alternative directions.

As it was it worked out just fine.  The Construction Workers seemed well versed and experienced having cyclists come through and they sent me walking to the right and I crossed the creek - stone over stone while carrying my bike.

When I thought of Kentucky before this trip I thought bluegrass, horses, and bourbon.  After this trip it's a little divided.  East Kentucky is Appalachia, poor, hills, and dogs and coal trucks.  West Kentucky still has hills, but not as massive as those that challenged us in the Appalachians.  These hills roll gently before us, blanketed by either farmland or horse pastures.  There are a few dogs here, but when they chase you it is almost for desperate fun rather than menacing us.

Took a six mile detour to a Whisky Bourbon Distillery, which before - in a car - was hardly a consideration, but now as part of a 74 mile day, it took a little more commitment.  The hills getting there were intense and those I coasted down - i knew I would have to grind back up.

Makers' Mark is the distillery here in Loretto, Kentucky.  I couldn't be sure how much mileage remained - about thirty five or so - so I passed on the tour, and instead wandered the grounds and discovered the restaurant and bar.  Had a Bourbon cocktail with my cyclist lunch while other around me we eating bacon fried chicken.

At the gift shop I discovered they will not ship alcohol so I purchased two of the smallest bottles that will fit in my bike bag, and then put on the distinctive red wax seal under the watchful eyes of May, who coached me on proper bottle holding and twisting to ensure that the distinctive drip marks would be present.

Learned a few things.  Bourbon and Whiskey are the same thing, but only bourbon comes from Kentucky.  These hills, populated by the Irish and Scots, bring some of their customs so whisky is spelled without the "e" here.  Finally there are more casks of bourbon aging in Kentucky than there are people.

Tonight we end in Hogdenville which unabashedly celebrates Abraham Lincoln who was born just miles down the road.  The road to here was not great for biking, and we were hot, parched and the sun was draining.  So in the town square we saw the Sweet Shoppe and we stopped even though we were only a mile and half from our nightly resting place.

“There is no frigate like a book

Emily Dickinson, 1830 - 1886

There is no Frigate like a Book
To take us Lands away,
Nor any Coursers like a Page
Of prancing Poetry –

This Traverse may the poorest take
Without oppress of Toll –
How frugal is the Chariot
That bears a Human soul.”

The town center is dominated by a round about and two statues of Lincoln, including one as a young boy reading a book.  "There is no faster frigate than a book," Doris Kearns Goodwin said about Lincoln's love of books. She was quoting Emily Dickenson.

Tonight we "camp" in the utility barn/pavilion of the Hodgenville Park and Recreation Center.  It covered, dry, and has bracing cold showers.  But it will do.  Tomorrow we have about 50 miles, but the weather forecast does not look good.  We expect rain for two days.

Day 19 (Berea, Kentucky to Harrodsburg, Kentucky)

At 6:30 am the breakfast crew lays out everything we have for breakfast and lunch so we can fuel up before and during our ride. It's a mix of the healthy (carrots, fruit, yogurt) and somewhat innocent (granola, bagels, cheese, peanut butter ) and profane (sweet rolls, blueberry cream muffins).  I had granola and a small blueberry muffin with two cups of coffee.  Turkey sandwich for lunch and two granola bars.

It's chilly and overcast with glowering pouting low hanging clouds slipping surly past us.  Will it rain or not? Probably.  It's lightly sprinkling now.  If so, how hard and how long?  No matter. We bike out anyway.

Now it's raining and windy. Into a ubiquitous local Subway for coffee and a warm sandwich. We draggle in, sopping wet. John remarks wryly, "We must look quite charming."

Improbable burger and milkshake stop in this weather but it hits the spot just right.  The Durgin Dairy Barn serves up hot food and hamburgers for only $2.89. The concrete at the base of the foundation has "Romans 8:28 5/9/06 R<3L.  Romans 8:28:  "“We know that all things work together for good for those who love God, to those who are called according to his purpose.”

Blackberry or Dogwood Winter.

While eating we met JR, a Volunteer First Responder, who told us that this chilly rainy weather is unusual for this time of year.  "What do they call it?" He asked himself, since we had no clue, "Blackberry Winter or Dogwood."  He paused a bit then rocked back on his heels. "Dogwood."

Harrodsburg, Kentucky

Tonight we come to rest in Harrodsburg, Kentucky.  Today's mileage was 49 miles (all in the wind, rain, or mostly the rain and the wind) but the Appalachians are behind us and the rolling hills are more hills, and the the bewildering polyglot of greenery has given way to farms and horse pastures.

Harrodsburg is famous for two things primarily.  It is the first permanent settlement east of the Appalachians and thus marks the meaningful expansion of the Nation's growth beyond the original Thirteen Colonies.  Second, the Marriage Temple is a small chapel that is built around the log cabin that Abraham Lincoln's parents were married and first resided.  Both are located at the Harrisburg Fort Park.

Dominating the park is the replica of the fort with a several buildings, pioneer craft demonstrations, and most fun today (after 49 miles cycling in the rain) was feeding the sheep.  For one dollar I purchased a bag of partial ground corn and spent fifteen minutes feeding the sheep.  Penelope, I dubbed her, loves me the most.

Norm and John cooked tonight.  Grilled steak with Caesar Salad "bar" so we could make our own steak salad.  Great power food for tomorrow 's 70 to 80 mile trek.  We'll pass by a number of Lincoln related sites (the Birthplace, the homestead) and more tantalizing we enter Bourbon Country.

49 miles.  Rain, Wind, or both.

We are staying at the YMCA. The internet-password is Jeremiah 29:11. “For I know the thoughts that I think toward you, says Yahweh, thoughts of peace, and not of evil, to give you hope and a future."

Day 18 (Rest Day Berea, Kentucky)

Glorious rest day and apparently much needed because I went to bed last night at 9:30pm and woke at 7:45am.

Berea is known for its Appalachian Art Center and the famed Liberal Arts College after which the town is named.  The College's claim to fame was that it accepted all races and both sexes since its founding in 1855.  The founder,  John Fee, gave the College its motto:  God has made of one blood all peoples of the earth.

It remained coeducational and integrated until 1905 when Kentucky passed the Day Law which prohibited private organizations from integrated education.

Berea fought back and the case eventually went to the United States Supreme Court where a 7-2 majority held in favor of  Kentucky.  Unsurprisingly the issue had nothing to do with the lack of wisdom or immorality of segregation but hinged on whether corporations had the same rights as individuals.   There was no question, the Court reasoned, the a State could not restrict private individuals teaching on a coeducational and integrated basis.  Did corporations have the same liberty.  The Court held they did not.  Berea knocked under and established a non-white college more than twenty five miles away until 42 years later when the law was repealed.

Currently there is no "tuition" at the College but all students must work 10 to 15 hours a week at the institution.  Most students come from the Appalachia region.  Students also have an income based family contribution that range as little as $200 a semester to $8,000 but that includes all books, Room and board.

It's a lovely campus.

Boone Tavern.

Dinner tonight at the Historic Boone Tavern which has, since 1909, been an extension of the Berea College. It was originally set up as a guest house for visiting guests of the College.  Dominating the small historic campus with its white columns and blue awnings, it is a welcome oasis from the convenience stores, camp meals and homemade cold cut sandwiches that have sustained us so far.

Dinner tonight starting with deep fried deviled eggs. A first time experience. Tasty. Bourbon Short ribs with gnocchi. Almost buttery. John picked the wine which was shared between him, Barry and I - a smooth Pinot Noir. Enjoyable dinner with lots of stories from Norm, Christine (Late entry, Idaho, former White Water Guide), Philip and Chris.

John (Retired Appellate Attorney, Drinks wine only, pictured) shakes his head in disbelief.  "Yesterday I had a dream I ate dinner in the parking lot of a cheap motel.  Today I'm here.  That's Adventure Cycling....it's an adventure!"

Introducing us to Kentucky Bourbon for desert, our waiter Michael explains that it's meant for sitting on the porch with your legs up on the rail.

"With your dog Red or Blue.  What other good names are there for Kentucky dogs?" I ask.

"Nothing with a lot of syllables," Michael says, "When you chew your words you don't use a lot of syllables."

Day 17 (Booneville, Kentucky to Berea, Kentucky)

Our guides have stopped writing the day's agenda on the white board on the truck for a while now. So I decided to start putting up faux-agendas.

Sadly my bike's rear wheel needed to be swapped out so no biking for me today. Tomorrow is our second rest day.

The Millennium Falcons' FTL drive is down, Han's dead, so it's just Chewbacca getting it repaired with the great help of Eric of Mike's Hike and Bike. Hopefully rear broken spokes are a thing of the past.

Sadly my bike's rear wheel needed to be swapped out so no biking for me today. Tomorrow is our second rest day. Two of our group's loved ones came to join us for the extended rest stop. Jim's wife Judy whipped Cesar Salad and fried Salmon and Halibut. Judy also made creme brûlée.

Never ate so well in a skeevy motel parking lot.

Sharing a room with Mike tonight and tomorrow who announced with a satisfied sigh that he was really going to stink up the room. At first I didn't know how to respond other than, "How so?"

Ben Gay. Lots of it.

Day 16 (Hindman, Kentucky to Booneville, Kentucky)

We pass a number of fanciful towns and hamlets. Recently we've come through Hayter's Gap, Haysi, Pippa Passes, and even upcoming Krypton, Kentucky looms. However Dwarf, Kentucky has be on anyone's short list (tee hee hee) of great names.

It's really just a tiny burg with a post office, fire department, and a few buildings. The community board is up but still advertises the Dwarf 2012 Reunion.

Hazard, Kentucky

Brief stop here in Hazard where coffee is $1.05 and the wifi options include “KILL WHITEY” and the “Satanic Temple of Hazard.”

Bree our waitress made a nice smiley face of pineapple and strawberries with my cottage cheese. Here we have the accent, but Bree's Kentucky drawl is infectious but difficult to understand. Our table asked several times what kind of pie, and she kept repeating the answer until I told them it wasn't Kentucky Seal but Kentucky Silk. I asked her for water in my bottle and she kindly asked if I wanted “ahss” in it.

Meeting Mayor Charles Long

At 97 years old, Booneville Mayor Charles Long is the oldest serving Mayor in the United States. He may also be the longest serving Mayor as well, having first been elected in 1959 back when Dwight D. Eisenhower was President and Fidel Castro had just taken power in Cuba. 

He has never had a contested race for re-election.

“That tells me one of two things Mayor,” I said, “Either you're really good at what you do, or the job is so horrible no one else wants it.”

 “When I was elected we didn't have sidewalks. No pavement on the streets - just dirt. If you wanted to go to Jackson you had to ford the river. When I got on the town board in 1954 the city had a wheelbarrow, some shovels and axes for road maintenance. Now I have city water and sewage into 96% of the county. 

The city - if you can call it that - has 81 residents according to the 2010 Census has seen a lot of changes. "I've never lived anywhere else (other than a stint in the Philippines with the Navy during World War II) and I just loved the people.” He was married to his wife 72 years. She passed way in 2012. 

The next election is next year. “Will you run again,” I asked. “If I'm alive I will. I'll be 99.”

•••

 Tonight we are staying at Booneville Methodist Church Life Center. It's a lovely night and the sunset lots up the sky all around us in a gauzy pink, blue and orange.

One other noticeable difference in Kentucky. The convenience stores have a bewildering supply of tobacco including massive bags of pipe tobacco.

Day 15 (Breaks Interstate Park, Virginia to Hindman, Kentucky)

I think what surprises most people is that it takes two weeks to go through Virginia. It is the longest State we pass through. Kentucky is eight or nine days. Illinois is a scant four or five and the includes a rest day.

So passing this state line is yet another little milestone of achievement earned. 

Having left early I was on the the lookout for some of the later departing, but much faster, cyclists but thus far now one had overtaken me. After Ashcamp it started raining so I put on my jacket and started the first of five steep climbs. It was during that that that I felt and heard the sad (clunk) of a rear wheel spoke going out. I twisted it into place, loosed the back brakes and kept riding. The tire was holding out ok, but I was making slow progress. Reaching the top of the hill and coming down, I realized that I could not fully stop using the rear break and barely come to a stop using the front brake.

In Hellier, Phil, driving the van came by and I signaled him that I didn't feel safe coming down the hills until the spoke was fixed. So in the van I sit. 20 miles today.

Our first night in a state OTHER than Virginia. The differences between Virginia and Kentucky are immediate and unalloyed. There is a poverty here that is both proud and depressing.

Two things. We could not go ten miles without seeing some house, trailer, or dwelling utterly ransacked or burned and destroyed. At the Map Meeting the whole discussion is about how to handle both feral and let-loose dogs which make a sport of barking, chasing, or attacking cyclists. It's a problem that's worse here but may extend into Missouri.

After dinner tonight we met with Doug Naselroad, Master Luthier, at the Appalachian Artisans Center here in Hindman. He teaches people how to make a variety of acoustic instruments including the Appalachian Dulcimer. It's a beautiful instrument. The Artisans Center works to preserve Appalachian Arts, Music, and Culture.

A sense of place is terribly important here, Mr Naselroad tells of a student of his making a guitar from the wood scavenged from shelves of a family grocery that had served the valley. When he was done he had a beautiful guitar, but more important it had a story. “All stringed instruments should be made with wood that is a 100 years old and has a story,” Naselroad said.

Day 14 (Elk Garden, Virginia to The Breaks Interstate Park, Virginia)

It rained hard last night.  I had set up my hammock in part not to bother my companions with my snoring.  I set up my hammock on these beautiful gronds and settled in.  In the middle of the night however I was woken to a tremendous storm of wind, thunder, lightning, and incredible sheets and blankets of rain.  Despite all of it - my hammock and the rain fly weathered it out.

As we creep into Western Virginia, the pastoral estates have given way to coal country.  Proudly so as we see homes and businesses declare where they perceive their butter coming from.

We also see signs of how that industry has struggled, particularly in the last decade with the regulations coming from the Obama Administration.  Not surprisingly we see lots of Trump support here.

Stopped for an impromptu lunch.  We had our first run in with the dreaded dogs of southwest Virginia.  A white dog tried to attack at least half of our group.   (I never saw it. ). Jim sprayed it with green Gatorade from his bottle and that did the trick.

Exhausted after a seemingly never ending climb up the hill to get to this park.  It takes me FOREVER to get up these steep long hills.

But I get up them.

We follow the United States Bike Route USBR 76 - established in 1976 as a bike route across America.  Rarely are we on divided highways.  Mostly it's country and state roads with little traffic.

Listening to Bluegrass at the park amphitheater tonight courtesy of the Backwoods Boys where the introductions include which county you come from because it matters.

The Breaks is known as the Grand Canyon of the South and the picture doesn't do it justice but there is a Canyon down there obscured by all the foliage.

Large Amish family behind us. Norm introduced himself and we got to talking. They are originally from Northern Indiana and then Ohio but now from Eastern Kentucky. They didn't come here by horse and buggy, hiring someone to bring them here. We got to discussing the relative discomforts of traveling by bike versus by buggy. It's possible, the man said, to travel to New York Amish by buggy and keep to a route that gets you to an Amish Community every thirty or forty miles to take care of your horses but, he paused with a chuckle, not sure if you would like traveling that long by buggy.

Map Meeting. After every dinner we go over the next days maps and route.  Tomorrow is 69 miles - really 70 plus and Philip says the Notes say it is the most challenging day with five large steep Kentucky hills.  Plus I cook so I need to try to be at camp at 4pm.

Nervous.

The Numbers:

42 miles for a total of 549 Miles.

Last ten miles dominated by three steep hills in the oppressive heat.   Ugh.  Fell asleep for a nap after my shower.

Day 13 (Damascus, Virginia to Elk Garden, Virginia)

Three miles out of Damascus I have two spokes go out on my rear tire.  Ugh.  Back to Damascus and getting replacements.  Norm, (Retired Air Force, NASA, Colonel, Eagle Scout) our most serious and accomplished biker, took me under his wing and rode back to Damascus with me and then helped me make the inevitable decision that I need a thirty-two spoke rear wheel - not the twenty four spoke wheel with which I was supplied.

Frustrating because a guy my size should have been told/pushed to getting the 32 spoke wheel.  Norm just knows all of this because he bikes almost every day.  He did the Ironman twice (2.4 miles swim, 112 mile biking and a 26.2 mile run) so anything he has to say on the subject I'll go with.

Norm got us squared away and we left Damascus shortly after 11:30AM but I wasn't too worried because we have only 32 miles to go and - most heartening - the massive hill climb after Hayter's Gap doesn't terrify me.

In our mini pantheon of a group, Norm quickly set himself apart in a few ways.  He is, by far, the strongest and best biker in our whole group.  No one can keep up with him. He rides constantly, and right before our tour he did a Natchez Trace ride of 500 miles or so.

Apparently when one is close to Kentucky, the Colonel Kentucky Fried Chicken is not the end-all and be-all in the fried chicken business.

He is infectiously happy and curious.  Because he typically gets to our stop for the day an hour of more before anyone else - he has time to explore and then he'll pass on the tidbits or recommendations.  For example in Wytheville he found the new Woodrow Wilson Hotel and their fabulous roof-top bar area which they promptly opened up just for us.  (I couldn't go - I was getting a spoke repaired.

Despite all the problems I feel really good about this ride.  My behind didn't really hurt - a testament to all of the lubes, and creams and glides - I am sure.  After all of my showers I have been amazed that I am not screaming in agony any time I set down on that seat.

This is gorgeous country filled with ups and downs, the hollows and hilltops of Appalachian hill country.  Most of the time we see cows, redolently grazing on green fields and hills.  One farm was filled with donkeys and goats, and we see at the entrance it is  called Little Ass Acres.

Apparently when one is close to Kentucky, the Colonel Kentucky Fried Chicken is not the end-all and be-all in the fried chicken business.

The Harvest Table Restaurant

Wow.  What an unexpected find in this town of a thousand people.  The one slightly disorienting aspect of doing this ride, and the tour is that we keep away - for the most part - large cities so it tends to be a string of small little burgs and hamlets after another.

Occasionally we come close to an Interstate Highway.  Travel parallel to it, cross them, over and under.  So the town of Meadowview just would have been one of those sleepy little burgs where all the action is on the interstate, except in the middle of their downtown Norm pulled over and found the Harvest Table Restaurant.

It was - relatively - inexpensive and the chicken sandwich, the salad with the local goat cheese was excellent.  Just an incredible find that had me scratching my head.  They offer "neo-Appalachian" cooking.  The chicken was so good.

Near Saltville, Virginia

After Hayter's Gap (pronounced Highter not HATER) the road turns up and stays going up but there was this great mailbox set up and as I was taking a picture a bird flew out of the left mailbox.

When I turned on Highway 80, the road crew had blocked it as closed, but they let the cyclists go through.  When you get to the truck, you'll need to walk around it, he told me.

I think it is a lovely and generous service that the Church Community provides the bikers. Thus far we have stayed in four churches and three of them have been Methodist. It is very peaceful green a tree pocked valley. I could have gone another ten or twenty miles easily, but it was nice to have such a short ride after the bike troubles and the rest day.

I thought it was road repair, but it wasn't.  A truck carrying asphalt had taken a turn too sharply, and the rear wheels slid down, turning the asphalt container on it's side.  Major clean up.

Elk Garden United Methodist Church Bike Hostel.

Came in quick this afternoon - all things considering.  This extraordinarily peaceful and serene church just popped up around the bend and here I was.  I saw the Bike Hostel Sign, our van and trailer, and knew I was - for tonight at least - home.

Tonight hot dogs, chili dogs.  Comfort food.  I set up the hammock outside.  It's so much more comfortable than sleeping on the ground with the air pad.

The Numbers:

32 Miles for a total of 507 Miles.

Day 12 (Rest Day Damascus, VA)

Slept deliciously in my hammock until I could hear the other Hostel residents begin to emerge including my co-hammock resident Aaron (Trail Name Mountain Man) and his improbably brave but appropriately named 14 ounce dog Critter begin to stir. Critter has a huge bell attached to his neck so it's like having a spastic mutant reindeer elf darting about the yard. 

The Woodchuck Hostel, named after the lumbering bear of a man who has, thus far, only worn camouflage t-shirt, has almost every room crammed with beds. In the backyard there is a wooden crossed stands where four hammocks can be hung. There, blissfully I hung the entire night in the fresh air.

Beyond that, the Hostel experience is bewildering with a parade of hikers and bikers and Lord knows who else comes through the kitchen and common areas.  Some have incredible poor body odor. The kitchen is a mix of public and private and the backyard porch is the laundry where the washer and dryer run constantly.  The Woodchuck does not tolerate drugs or alcohol so I don't have to contend with marijuana smoke. 

Rest Day, particularly the first rest day means shopping and tweaking.  I bought a different pack at a wonderful 50% discount.  Sun screen.  I took my bike in for a safety check. All good.  We are told that the day riding West means a large sustained pedal uphill. 

Lunch today at Mojos for a vinegar based pulled pork sandwich. Very good. Met up with inspirational and young bikers and hikers Abigail and Seth who have been biking since Georgia.  They also did the Appalachian Trail and while doing it and the current bike ride they collect and carry out the trash they find.  Vibrant couple. Different paths.  We took a group picture while I controlled the phone camera with my watch and was promptly given the Trail Name "Savvy."

Damascus, the Town, is a small Appalachian Village, of maybe a thousand people. However it is a major stop on both the Appalachian Trail and the TransAmerica Bike Route.  It also has a vibrant bike and hiking trailer called the Virginia Creeper.  This weekend the town hosts a Trail Days Festival and a tent city is beginning to swell the population to eight thousand. 

Dinner tonight with the group at the lovely Old Mill Inn on their back patio overlooking mallards and a pond and a small waterfall.

Day 11 (Wytheville, Virginia to Damascus, Virginia)

First half of the day uphill.   Then downhill all the way into Damascus which is a big stopping point for the Appalachian Trail and the TransAmerica route.  We'll rest tomorrow.

These cows were so curious and interested in Barry and I so we just sat down and had an early lunch with them.  They eyed us noiselessly until the lost interest in us and wandered away.

This is gorgeous country, but more important, this little turn off means that my climbing up and up is over and I will be heading down hill.

Tonight's stop at the Woodchuck Hostel in Damascus, Virginia.  It's an intersection of both the Appalachian Trail and the 76 TransAmerica Bike Route. Today 57.8 miles for a total of 476.8 Miles. 3635 feet up. 4042 down. The climb up was a relentless constant for two ten mile stretches but the last 15 miles were a mostly exhilarating coast down following the waters and waterfalls of the river into Damascus.